BYKENNYSPAHN
STAFF
WRITER
Every once in a blue moon, you find a restaurant that seems
to have it all: Location, ambiance, service, lively nightlife,
a stellar wine list, and of course, incredible food. A place like
Caffé Luna Rosa. Owner Fran Marincola opened Luna Rosa
in 1994, and under Fran’s careful guidance (along with managers
Jorge Ramos and Chris Linaris), it’s become a mainstay of
the ever-evolving Atlantic Avenue scene. Luna Rosa (“Pink
Moon” in Italian) is ideally situated along A-1A, with-in
a breadstick’s throw of the beach, and Atlantic Avenue.
An outdoor patio provides the per-fect seat for ocean-breezed
alfresco dining, or just relaxing with a drink and checking out
the action along “the Ave.”
Tuscan arches, a painted ceil-ing, and wooden wine racks first
establish the Italian theme. But the real magic comes with the food,
under the mastery of Executive Chef Ernesto Di Blasi. We’re
talking serious cuisine here, starting with a veritable “Who’s
Who” of quality ingredi-ents (always a good sign), from authentic
Parmigiano Reggiano, Bufala mozzarella, San Marzano tomatoes, and
Prosciutto di Parma; to just-picked herbs and handmade breads.
We began with a Calamari appetizer, julienned into strips, then
flash-sautéed (not breaded and fried!) with roasted red peppers,
carrots, and sundried tomato pesto. Outstanding, especially when
mopped up with the house-baked breads and roasted garlic brought
to each table. The Combination Vegetable Plate makes a great appetizer
or side dish to share, as does the Spuntini Misti antipasto platter
or Broccoli Rabe. (Appetizers: $5-$16).
Homemade Pastas ($14-$19) are exceptional, so forget Dr. Atkins
for the night. Sure, everyone has some sort of generic “pasta
with vodka sauce,” but you simply won’t find any better
than Chef Ernesto’s signature Creste di Gallo, with hand-craft-ed
“Rooster’s Crest” pasta in a luscious vodka tomato
cream sauce, enlivened with pan-seared pancetta and fresh basil.
Being so close to the ocean, you might expect some great seafood
here. And you’d be right. Fresh Chilean Sea Bass Acqua Pazza,
baked with plum tomatoes, red onion, garlic, asparagus, and herbed
butter sauce, is simply divine. (I’ll be back for this one!).
We also loved the Linguine all’ Amalfitana, a thundering bowl
of assorted seafood, daily fresh catch, and fresh linguine, swim-ming
in a radiant garlic sauce with San Marzano tomatoes and fresh basil.
My choice for beef? Try the 14-oz. center cut Veal Chop, char-grilled
to perfection, teamed with Portobella mush-rooms, garlic spinach
and fresh mozzarella, then served atop soft Polenta (wow!). Pollo
Ruspante is an outstanding rus-tic dish, featuring pan-roasted chicken
simmered with carrots and shallots in a savory grain mustard sauce,
with herb potatoes and spinach. Other notable Entrees ($15-$29)
include Veal Chop Milanese, Pan Roasted Salmon, Filet Mignon Tournedos,
and daily specials.
Any discussion of Luna Rosa must include its award-winning wine
list of over 200 labels ($23 - $395, with most around $30-$80),
stored mainly in the climate-controlled wine cellar. Our waiter,
Kevin, had already impressed us with his exem-plary service, but
his wine proficiency was particularly extraordinary, complete with
tableside decanting, and even “seasoning” of the stemware.
We enjoyed a Castello del Terriccio Tassinaia ‘00 ($70), a
gutsy Super Tuscan (Cab, Merlot, and Sangiovese blend). Big, bold,
and beefy, with underlying layers of coffee and smoke, it held up
magnificently with our hearty entrees, espe-cially the veal.
Unfortunately, space precludes discussion of the desserts, full
bar, lunch, breakfast, or brunch offerings, other than to say they’re
also fantastic. Caffé Luna Rosa: Simply stellar. |
